Revisiting the Queen - Part 1

After my first canoe trip through Queen Elizabeth Wildlands 2 Provincial Park last year, I came back with mixed feelings. There was enough wilderness in the park that intrigued me, but all the float planes and cabins put a damper on the enthusiasm. Even the name of the park was bizarre, as I couldn't understand the correlation. Yet despite this, the lure to go back was nagging at me. I decided another trip was in order to satisfy my curiosity, especially since I didn't get to see the east side of the park.

Setting off on Head Lake to 

revisit QEW2 PP

Since my trip (and the subsequent blog post), Brad Jennings of explorethebackcountry.com sent me a nice email and we have since corresponded several times. Brad and his father Wayne have continued to map potential routes in the park and have generously shared that information with the paddling community. This is great for adventurous paddlers like myself, looking for new routes to explore - with the other bonus being that the park is close by. I know there are other paddlers, especially Jeff McColl that has helped Brad with this work. So with the same mindset, I hope to assist him where I can with any pertinent information that could be added to their already informative map.

Getting the flavour of the park last time around, I was well prepared to expect the same conditions, if not worse, since I also wanted to venture a bit off the known routes this time. Brad informed me before I left, that some of the route I was taking was better signed and cleared this time. After starting from a different access point this year, H1 (on Brad's map) we paddled east across Head Lake and made our way into to Fishog Lake for the first night. It was a short day as we left after work and we wanted to rest up for the route that lay ahead. Little did we know, the adventures that laid before us.

Enjoying the light show with the setting

sun on Fishog Lake

The next morning, we headed out of Fishog Lake in a northeasterly direction. We were to follow a chain of portages that would get us into Red Boat, then Coburn, and eventually into Scrabble Lake. Needless to say, it didn't really pan out that way. (Does it ever?) True to Brad's words, the signs were there, but being late spring and what seemed to be the lack of paddlers through this area, there was still a lot of growth. This often times hid the pink flagging tape that was to be our guide, so we took out our pruner (Yes, they work amazing for clearing trail!) and saw, and cleared/reflagged the trail along the way.

Evidence of Brad & Wayne Jennings work

in the park with the portage signs

One notable portage that took us out of a pond and into a narrow creek had Anita questioning the logic of its take out. Only being 290m, it was wasn't very long, but the start was straight up a boulder strewn incline. Brad mentions it in his map, but despite the forewarning, it requires stamina going up and deft footwork balancing over and around boulders. I took it as status quo, being familiar with this kind of portage, but Anita wasn't impressed. I guess it didn't help that she was hauling more than half her body weight on her back. In any case, as this area is rimmed in by high granite, there really wasn't any alternatives - yet.

Scrambling up the steep pitch of boulders

Travel-wise, on the water and off, it went fairly smoothly. Actual trail time took longer than usual, only because I was doing moderate trail maintenance and re-flagging as we went along. We had lunch on Red Boat Lake, before setting off on a 650m portage on ATV trails to Coburn Lake. It was supposed to be a straight forward carry; supposed to be. ATV trails are pretty evident, like how can you miss the furrows created from their big wheels? Also, we had to turn right at the Y-split, otherwise, we would end up on the 950m portage to Clear Lake. We started with hardly a second thought, as we knew exactly which way to go and and figured we would soon be on Coburn Lake.

Anita catching her breath at the top of the climb.

Can you tell she was thinking

happy thoughts?

I have to say, I hate following ATV trails. They don't go from point A to B in the most efficient way, much like an actual portage trail would. I don't want to go snaking from one side to the other, nor go up and down inclines, because I have a gas-powered engines to effortlessly get me there. I know at times, they do have to go around obstacles, but just like paddling through oxbows, you realize you just travelled double the distance. Not to begrudge the trail fun factor for ATV's, but do that with a pack and canoe on your back, it isn't fun. Give me the fastest point from one body of water to the next, without scaling Everest, much like how the First Nations people did it. Am I asking too much?

The Coburn Creek crossing - Teddy 

prefers shuttle service

Signage in terms of the faded pink survey tape was sparse at best. I think I saw maybe two strips? I'm sure Brad, nor anyone else bothered much with signage, as the ATV trails should have been somewhat self-explanatory. The little I did see gave me confidence we were going the right way, despite thinking we should have arrived at the lake by now. As Anita and I were doing one and a half carries, I sent her on ahead as I went back for the canoe. When I finally caught up with her, she was crossing a wide creek. At this point I knew for a fact, we were way beyond the 650m distance, if not double, but a wide creek crossing too? It was definitely still an ATV trail, with the purposeful rock placement in the creek. We put our stuff down after crossing and I pulled out the GPS that I was using for the first time. According to the map I printed, we actually do cross Coburn Creek. It seemed we were lower down based on the GPS, but because I had scribbled the approximate line of the portage on the topo map, I really couldn't be sure. It certainly seemed we were in the right place, but the distance travelled seemed awfully wrong.

Anita and Teddy recovering at the Coburn Creek crossing - 

this after our long fruitless march

 along ATV trails

You know when you get the feeling something is wrong, but some of the interpreted information is correct, you force the unknown to make sense? This not only makes you feel better, but makes the illogical, logical again. I now assumed the 650m distance was actually from the Y split, so the actual length of the portage was much longer. Ta-daaa! All fixed! So off we went, continuing along the ATV trail, thinking the lake would appear soon. I sensed we were heading in the wrong direction again, but the trail twisted and turned and soon had me flummoxed as to which direction we were actually headed. When again I was certain we were well passed the required distance, I pulled out my GPS and was shocked to find we were heading southeast, not north! Seeing my wife labour under the large pack as she came up yet another incline towards me, I thought I was going to be in BIG trouble.

Looking up Coburn Creek and optimistically

thinking THIS was the  key to getting

to Coburn Lake

Surprisingly, she was totally okay. After I took her pack off, and gave her water to drink, I explained the good news. I said with 110% confidence, that we were going the wrong way! She said she wasn't surprised. She sarcastically remarked that it was normal that I would take the longer and harder way around and laughed. (Phew! I thought I was going to become bear bait!) After a little break, we turned around and headed back to the Coburn Creek crossing. On the way back, with more than enough time to ruminate, I had devised the next plan of action. We would abandon the ATV trail and forge our own way to Coburn Lake - up Coburn Creek. Anita just shook her head.

Stay tuned for Part 2!

Year in Review - 2012

2012 may not have been the ideal tripping year, but it certainly

 was important. Time to get married!

Photo: Anice Wong

Two thousand and twelve was an off year for me. It was an anomaly when compared to previous years, in regards to the number of trips, and the amount of days spent out in the bush. In all respects, I did not expect some banner or record year, considering what was going on in my life, but based on plans I had in place, it would still have been a great year. Unfortunately, unexpected circumstances changed our plans significantly and altered how the year played out. Regrets? I would have to say no for the most part. But because I had to reflect back for this review, it's too bad it didn't go as planned. The ideal circumstances would have had me not only getting the cake, but eating it too! But alas, life is unpredictable and sometimes that's what makes it interesting - well sometimes. Ultimately, I am thankful for many things that did happen last year, and considering, lucky for the many opportunities I did get to head out on canoe trips!

Island site on Noganosh Lake - Who doesn't love tenting

under towering red pines?

Tallying the numbers, I headed out on 5 trips totalling 29 days. It's certainly nothing to be disappointed about, but it is less than half of the time I usually spend on canoe trips. Twenty-twelve may not be remembered as a tripping year, but it certainly will stand out for the many other significant things that did happen. Looking back, I am happy it is all over. There are memories from the past year that I will cherish for a lifetime, but it's also nice to look forward to a normal one. Sure, it will be another regular year of more canoe trips and tromping around in the bush, but call me crazy. I wouldn't have it any other way!

The towering peaks and cliffs along the Mississagi river had

us craning our necks, admiring the scenery.

The tripping season started later than I hoped. After the extremely mild winter and the jump start to an early spring, I should have been out on a trip at the beginning of April. Unfortunately, things didn't pan out that way. I was especially envious when friends asked me to join them on an Easter weekend trip, but regretfully, I had to decline. Despite the missed opportunity, I was finally able to head out at the end of the month with Anita to the French River to open the season. Nothing like the thrill of the first canoe trip after a long dormant winter!

The next trip during the May long weekend was a hit and miss route along the Gibson river, when I couldn't book sites at a provincial park. It was a trip that surprised our group with some great scenery, including the numerous falls along the way. The part we could have skipped, was the large lakes we had to cross where cottages and weekend party'ers populated the shoreline. It's unfortunate that a great route located close to the city couldn't totally be isolated. But maybe that is why the non-canoeist are there too! My advice, paddle the route in the off season.

The French River is one of my favourite paddling destinations.

Go early and you will have the place to yourselves!

Come June, Anita and I headed off to visit a new unmaintained park that I had very little information about. With some bits and pieces of information from various sources, we put together what seemed to be a fairly easy trip. Little did we know, that the 'easy trip' was far from the truth. It wasn't that I expected an easy route, rather, it was because I didn't expect a challenging one. Despite the extra effort, it was well worth it. It may have been hard not to notice the hunt camps and cabins along the way, but we couldn't deny the sense of seclusion and tranquillity in the pockets of wilderness we found. The experience was positive enough that we are definitely going back.

Wanting our ring bearer to participate in the themed wedding,

this paddle set up worked out great!

Photo: Anny Chiu

Before the month of June ended, I was off again with a group of friends to paddle the Mississagi River. The logistics of this river trip make it challenging for many canoeist due to the long shuttle. Despite being a set back for some, we decided that enduring the long shuttle was worth experiencing this river. The rewards were plentiful with the varied scenery and terrain that we found captivating. Not surprisingly, this was also the trip that Tom Thomson took exactly 100 years ago that really inspired his painting of landscapes, not Algonquin as everyone is led to believe. Tom Thomson claimed it to be the "finest canoe trip in the world", while a another notable canoeist, Grey Owl, claimed it as "the King among rivers". Who can argue with them? The landscape has changed since then, by humans of course, but it is easy to see how it was, and still is a great route for a canoe trip.

Parts of the Gibson River were surprisingly isolated and scenic.

As long as you know which parts to avoid!

Once summer had started, it was obvious things were falling apart, at least in terms of our tripping plans. Our carefully crafted schedule and plan to both trip and prepare for the wedding wasn't going to be feasible any more. There was more pressing issues to deal with, so unfortunately, canoe trips had to take a back seat. Surprisingly, Anita wouldn't hear of it, at least to a point. She really wanted to head out for one more trip before we tied the knot, especially since she missed out on the previous one. So off we went on a short trip to explore a crown land route. It was a great reprieve from the stress, but a chance to reaffirm why we wanted to be together for the rest of our lives. What better place than on a canoe trip!

After the last trip, our focus immediately turned to our upcoming move and wedding. Things definitely got crazy, but thankfully, all the planning and preparation paid off come wedding day. It had its challenges and headaches, but it was totally worth it. I mean, how many times do you hear about an actual canoe wedding? Unfortunately, this was the last time Anita and I shared a paddle in a canoe for the rest of the year. Originally, there was plans for us to head off on our honeymoon right after, and yes, it was on a canoe trip. Unfortunately, because we had just moved into our home before the wedding, the house was a disaster, and on top of all that, I got sick the day after. So much for that plan!

The Queen Elizabeth 2 Wildlands, a great paddling destination

in southern Ontario. Although, probably better

 when there's water!

Speaking of which, I still do owe my wife a honeymoon. Months have passed since our marriage, but I haven't forgotten this special time and very important 'rite of passage'. All is not lost. I may have been dormant the last several months, but my head has not been idling away. There is a novel idea that has been brewing in my head for a paddling honeymoon, which I plan to share with you in a future post. It's also an opportunity for my readers to provide some input and suggestions too!

All in all, it may have been one crazy year, but it all turned out for the best. Looking ahead, you can bet I want to make up for last year. There are already a few trips in place for this year, such as a whitewater trip on the Noire River in Quebec, a couple weeks in Wabakimi Provincial Park, as well as revisiting Queen Elizabeth 2 Wildlands to explore the east side of the park. I have to say, it's been the longest stretch of time between canoe trips I've had to endure in a long time, but it hasn't in the least tempered my passion. In fact, it has only increased my longing to head out. I have to totally agree with the oft quoted saying, "absence makes the heart grow fonder". Although, who knew it could also refer to canoe trips! 

Appropriate footwear for an outdoor wedding. Just try

and ignore my butt shot - thanks Anny!

Photo: Anny Chiu

Looking forward to an amazing paddling year in 2013!

Hope to see some of you out there!

Cheers,

tPP